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Afghan is one of the most undeservedly underrepresented ethnic cuisines in America's restaurant cult |
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It took only a first bite of aushak, my appetizer at Helmand, to remind me of this. Aushak ($5.95) are ravioli-like kerchiefs of gossamer pasta filled with a melting duet of leeks and scallions. What ennobles the dish is the sensual layering of flavors around the pasta: a pool of yogurt laced with garlic and dried mint, topped by rich, elusively spiced beef and tomato sauce. The two garnishes commingle in a rhapsody of contrasts: cooling and warming, frisky and soothing, familiar yet exotic. Read more...
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